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Serious question, why are people still quenching 1084 in motor oil when parks 50 exists
Had a guy bring me a blade last month that he quenched in used 10w30 and it came out soft as butter, wouldn't hold an edge on cardboard. He said he read on some forum that any oil works fine, but he was running it at 1475 and the oil just couldn't pull heat fast enough, plus the smoke in my shop was unreal. Parks 50 costs more up front but it's night and day on the hardness tester, I'm getting 64-65 hrc on my 1084 with a 10 minute temper at 400. Anyone else seeing guys skip proper quench oil and then blame the steel?
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leow9011d ago
So what was the actual quench speed on that 10w30, did the guy even measure it or just dunk and hope? Motor oil has additives and detergents in it that mess with the cooling curve, so even fresh 10w30 is way slower than a fast oil like parks 50. I ran a batch of 1084 through canola once at 1450 and got maybe 58 hrc on a good day, so I'm not shocked the used oil gave him nothing. The part I want to know is whether he normalized it first or just went straight from the forge to the quench, because that changes everything. If he skipped the normalizing step then the oil is only half his problem. What did the grain look like when you broke it?
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