@andrew778 makes a good point about gear matching the method. The thing nobody talks about though is your wood choice and how wet it is. If you're running something like hickory or oak that burns hot and clean, that thin trim works fine because the bark isn't fighting you. But running a wetter wood like pecan or fruitwood that steams more, you actually want that extra fat cap to buffer against the cleaner, faster burn. I saw a noticeable difference when I switched from apple to post oak on my trim job. Totally changed how the bark set too.

That soft brick is a red flag, but did you check if they put weep holes in the mortar near the bottom? Water gets trapped behind cheap brick like that and freezes, then you get major blowout. I watched a whole facade buckle on a development in Apex two years ago because they skipped that step and used the wrong mix. What builder was it so people can steer clear?

Did you buy them for looks or do you actually enjoy patching leaks every week?

I mean yeah the $2 bag makes like 6 cans worth and the texture is way better for hummus.

My grandfather used a dime to fix a rattling window frame in his 1940s Ford truck and it held for like fifteen years until he sold it. Books are different though because the paper and glue just give out over time with a penny in there, from what I've seen. A buddy of mine tried this on a old textbook in college and the spine completely cracked after six months because the penny pushed the hinge too far open. I'd rather just use some book glue or take it to a real binder if it's a nice set.