c/furniture-finishers

Can we talk about what happened to my oak table after 6 months with a 'natural' beeswax polish?

It went from a nice honey tone to this weird, milky haze because the wax built up and trapped moisture. Anyone know a safe way to strip this without damaging the original stain?

1 comments

rileyfox•2d ago

Can we talk about using a hairdryer to speed up polyurethane drying? I thought it was a terrible idea until I tried it on a small test piece.

I was finishing a maple dresser top last week and needed to get a second coat on before the end of the day. The can said 4-6 hours to recoat, and I was stuck. I remembered a guy at a supply house in Boise mentioned using a hairdryer on low heat from a foot away to gently push the solvents out. I always thought that would cause bubbles or cure issues. I cut a scrap piece of maple, put on a coat of oil-based poly, waited an hour, and then used my wife's old Conair on the cool setting, keeping it moving constantly about 12 inches away. Checked it after 30 minutes and it was dry to the touch, no dust stuck. I went for it on the dresser and it worked perfectly. Saved me a whole afternoon of waiting. Has anyone else tried this with water-based finishes, or is it strictly an oil-based trick?

2 comments

olivia_carr7•2d ago

Thinking about the old shellac flakes I found in my granddad's shop

Three years ago, I was cleaning out my granddad's old garage in Toledo after he passed. I found a dusty tin of orange shellac flakes he must have bought in the 70s. Last month, a client brought in a beat up 1920s gramophone cabinet, and I remembered that tin. I mixed a small batch, just to see. The smell when I dissolved it in alcohol was nothing like the pre-mixed stuff I usually grab. It had this warm, almost spicy scent. Working with it felt different too, like I was connecting with how he would have done things. It took more patience, but the depth on that old wood was something else. I wonder if anyone still uses the old flake method for special pieces, or if it's just not worth the extra time anymore.

2 comments

noah_chen17•3d ago

I finally switched from a foam brush to a good china bristle for oil based poly

I was finishing a walnut table top last week and the foam brush left tiny bubbles that set in the finish. Grabbed a Purdy china bristle brush instead and the difference was night and day, no bubbles and a much smoother coat. What's your go-to brush for clear coats on big flat surfaces?

3 comments

betty_white39•3d ago

I used to think a tack cloth was the only way to prep for finish

For years I'd go through those sticky rags like crazy, especially on big pieces. Then a guy at the supply house in Tacoma said to try a damp microfiber cloth instead. I was sure it would raise the grain, but on a recent oak table job I gave it a shot. I just wiped it down with a barely damp cloth and let it dry for 20 minutes. The surface was way cleaner than with a tack cloth, and no grain raising at all. Anyone else have a weird prep step that turned out to be a winner?

2 comments

joseph932•5d ago

A client told me my lacquer was 'too perfect' and looked plastic, so I switched to a 50/50 mix of satin and gloss for the last three pieces.

I mean, it sounds weird, but that tiny bit of sheen variation makes the wood grain look way more alive, idk, has anyone else tried blending finishes like that?

2 comments

the_morgan•6d ago

My uncle swore by thinning shellac with denatured alcohol for a 2-pound cut, but my test board showed major adhesion issues after a week.

Switched to a 1.5-pound cut with fresh flakes and the difference in durability was huge. What's your go-to ratio for a durable topcoat on oak?

2 comments

brian45•7d ago

My old boss swore by thinning shellac with denatured alcohol, but I think that's a mistake

He'd say 'it dries faster and lays flatter' every time, but on a humid day last August, a whole tabletop I did got cloudy and stayed tacky for a week. Has anyone else had problems with that mix in damp weather?

2 comments

finley820•8d ago

Unpopular opinion: I think the old-school method of stripping with a heat gun and scraper is actually faster than chemical strippers for most pieces.

I had a stubborn 1940s dresser with eight layers of paint, so I tried a Wagner heat gun on a low setting and a 2-inch carbide scraper, and it took me 3 hours versus the 2 days of waiting and scraping I usually spend with methylene chloride.

2 comments

ramirez.blair•9d ago

That time a shellac finish went cloudy on me in a damp Chicago garage

I was finishing a maple dresser about five years ago, right as a cold front rolled in. I brushed on a fresh coat of shellac and within an hour the whole surface turned milky white. The humidity must have spiked to 80% in that unheated space. I panicked, thinking I'd have to strip it all back. Instead, I gently warmed the surface with a hair dryer on low, moving it constantly about six inches away. The cloudiness faded as the moisture evaporated out of the finish. Ever since, I keep a cheap humidity gauge on my bench. What's your go-to fix for a blush in a finish?

2 comments

vera_lewis•10d ago

Question about sanding between coats on a walnut table

I keep seeing people skip the light sanding step between polyurethane coats, then wonder why their finish feels rough. On a recent walnut table project, I did a quick pass with 400 grit after the first coat dried and the final surface was glass smooth. Anyone else notice this is the make or break step for a pro feel?

3 comments

hayden_rivera•12d ago

My old spray rig finally quit on a big dining table job last week

I was finishing a 6 foot cherry table for a client in Tacoma, about 3 coats into a conversion varnish. The compressor motor just started making a horrible grinding noise and died. I had to scramble and rent a rig from the local supplier to finish the job, which cost me an extra $85 for the day. It got me thinking about how much more reliable my old gear used to be back in the day. Anyone have a good lead on a solid, basic HVLP setup that won't break the bank?

2 comments

hugo_nelson•14d ago

A client asked me to use coffee grounds as a stain and I thought they were nuts

This was about two years ago, a lady in Eugene wanted her oak table stained with a 'natural patina'. She handed me a bag of used espresso grounds and told me to mix them with vinegar. I was sure it would just make a smelly, gritty mess. But I needed the job, so I tried it on a scrap piece first. I let the grounds sit in white vinegar for three days, strained it, and brushed it on. It actually gave the wood this really warm, deep grey-brown color, like an old barn door. It sealed up fine with a coat of shellac too. I still don't use it for paying jobs, but it worked way better than I ever thought it would. Has anyone else tried a weird 'kitchen sink' stain that actually turned out okay?

2 comments

cameronb52•14d ago

A client in Denver asked me why I never leave any marks on my work

I was dropping off a restored oak dresser last month, and the client, an older guy who used to do woodwork himself, said something that stuck with me. He pointed at the piece and said, 'It's perfect, but it looks like it just came from a factory. Where's your hand?' I told him I always sand everything smooth and buff out any tool marks for a clean finish. He just nodded and said, 'I guess I miss seeing a little ripple in the shellac or a faint sanding scratch that shows a person did it. It tells a story.' I've been thinking about that for weeks now. I built my whole business on flawless, machine-like results, but maybe that's not what everyone wants. Has anyone else had a client ask for less-than-perfect finishes on purpose?

2 comments

taylorhunt•17d ago

I finally tried a 4-inch foam roller for sanding curves after using a block for a decade

The block left flat spots on a recent Queen Anne leg, but the roller followed the shape perfectly. Anyone have a go-to foam density for delicate veneers?

3 comments

lisa_hart26•18d ago

Back in the day I bought a 'miracle' wipe-on poly that promised a pro finish in one coat

It was some late night infomercial thing that cost me about $45 for a tiny bottle, which was a lot back then. I used it on a nice oak dresser and it looked awful, super streaky and soft. Had to strip the whole thing and start over, wasted a full weekend. Anyone else get burned by those too-good-to-be-true products before we all knew better?

3 comments

troyh55•18d ago

Spent $450 on a 'professional' spray booth filter system that nearly ruined a client's mahogany table

I got a new inline filter setup for my HVLP sprayer, thinking it would give a cleaner finish. The filters were cheap and collapsed under pressure, sending a fine mist of old finish particles and dust over the whole wet coat. I had to strip and sand the entire top again, adding a full day of work. Has anyone found a truly reliable filter brand that won't fall apart?

3 comments

jordan330•19d ago

Vent: Seeing a lot of folks skip the grain filler on oak projects lately

I was at a local craft fair in Greenville last month and saw three different tables with a rough, open grain finish under the topcoat. The makers told me they thought the sealer would fill it, but it just looks unfinished to me. What's the fastest grain filler you guys use for something like red oak?

3 comments

andrewh43•19d ago

Pro tip: skip the foam brushes for poly, a cheap china bristle brush is a total game changer

I was finishing a big oak table last month and decided to test both. The foam brush left a million tiny bubbles in the first coat that I had to sand out, adding like 2 hours to the job. The $8 china bristle brush from the hardware store laid it down smooth and even every single time. It held more finish so I could work faster, and the final coat looked like glass. I'm never going back to foam for top coats. What's your go-to brush for water-based stuff, since bristle can be tricky with those?

2 comments

riley_price•20d ago

Question about a shellac disaster on a 1920s oak dresser

I was applying a fresh coat of shellac in my garage in Portland last week, and a huge dust clump fell from the ceiling right into the wet finish. I tried to pick it out with a toothpick but it just smeared and left a nasty, rough patch. What's the best way to fix this without stripping the whole top again?

3 comments

blairj55•22d ago

Crossed 500 hours on my orbital sander and it made me think about tool life

Honestly, I was cleaning my gear last night and checked the hour meter on my 6-inch random orbital. It read 512 hours. Ngl, that number hit me. On one side, it's a point of pride. This is a basic DeWalt model I got for $150 back in 2019, and it's still running smooth after prepping countless tabletops and chair frames. It feels like a real workhorse. But on the other side, it makes me nervous. The manual says the brushes are rated for about 600 hours. So now I'm debating: do I just run it until it dies and buy a new one, or do I spend the time and maybe $40 in parts to rebuild it now? I know some guys say rebuilding is a waste of time for a tool at this price, but tossing a sander that still works feels wrong. Has anyone else faced this call with a well-used tool right before its expected end?

3 comments

benk26•24d ago

A 1930s radio cabinet with a shellac bloom that wouldn't quit

Picked up a Philco console from a damp basement, and the shellac had bloomed so bad it looked like frost. I thought a quick rub with denatured alcohol would fix it, but it just smeared and I had to strip the whole top panel back to bare wood. Has anyone else had a bloom that turned into a full strip job, or is there a trick I missed?

3 comments

the_lucas•24d ago

Saw a really nice finish on a bench in the Denver airport

I was stuck on a layover and went to the new lounge near gate B60. They have this long oak bench with a finish that looks like satin but feels like glass. I'm pretty sure they used a hard wax oil, maybe Rubio Monocoat, because there's zero film and the grain is super open. Has anyone else seen a public space finish that made you stop and figure it out?

3 comments

gavin_reed•26d ago

Finally got the hang of fixing that weird lacquer blush on a humid day

I was finishing a maple dresser in my garage in Portland last month, and the lacquer turned milky white right after I sprayed it. The humidity was way up, and I panicked. I grabbed my heat gun and gently warmed the surface from about a foot away, and the cloudiness just faded out. Has anyone else found a better fix for blush when you can't control the shop air?

3 comments

diana_black22•28d ago

Okay, I need to admit I was wrong about shellac flakes.

For years I heard people in this group talk about mixing their own shellac from flakes and I thought it was just a snobby, old-school thing. I figured the pre-mixed stuff from the can was fine, especially for quick repairs. Then I got a job refinishing a 1920s writing desk in Portland, and the client wanted a true French polish. My usual can of shellac dried way too fast and left streaks. A guy at the local woodworking store basically made me buy a bag of blonde dewaxed flakes and a bottle of denatured alcohol. Mixing a fresh 2-pound cut and applying it, the difference was crazy. It flowed on so much smoother and I could actually build up a decent shine without it gumming up. I felt like a total convert after that one job. Has anyone else had a tool or material they avoided that ended up being a game changer?

3 comments